← All stories

Laos, Luang Namtha

The Roof That Finally Stopped Leaking

A young woman on free schooling, borrowed fashion, and the quiet hope that tourism might fix what the town still can't.

She likes having tourists around, and struggles to think of much that's gone wrong because of them. Plenty of people make a living from tourism here, and there's a fair amount to learn from the visitors passing through too. Talking with tourists has become one of her favourite ways to improve her English — most of her friends do the same — and it's simply enjoyable, hearing how people live elsewhere and seeing the different ways they dress.

She'll admit to copying tourist fashion herself sometimes. The city itself has no real dress code, though villages call for more conservative clothing, out of respect for local sensibilities.

A few years ago a new school was built because the old building was falling apart. When it rained it just came straight through the roof.

Education here is free and, in her view, genuinely good — open to everyone regardless of means. The new school building, replacing one that had been quietly failing for years, has made a real difference on wet days alone. What she hopes tourism can help fix next is electricity, still limited to a few hours a day, with generators filling the gap for those who can afford one. Medical care is another hope — serviceable for everyday needs, but anyone seriously ill still has to travel to another city for proper treatment.

Getting around town isn't a real obstacle — she has her own bike, same as most of her friends, and tuktuks or buses cover longer distances cheaply and frequently.

She hasn't noticed tourism reshaping local values or tradition much. Some things shift slightly, sure, but she chalks that up to ordinary change over time rather than anything tourists are doing specifically.

She's not sure what she'd actually change about tourism as it stands. The current pace — not too many visitors, mostly friendly ones — suits her fine. A town permanently overrun with tourists, she suspects, would feel different. For now, though, it's just right.